emo Project Kujira: My Over-The-Top AZ-1 Build

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19 Mar 2017 04:41 #26583

I have two stock garrett 1446 turbos off a 500 abarth if you're interested.

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27 Mar 2017 18:17 #26589

I have a few small updates at this point. With respect to the gearing question, the K6A and F6A transmissions have identical ratios for final drive, reverse, and 1st through 4th gears, but fortunately 5th gear is numerically lower on the K6A unit. Here's what I have found:

1st: 3.818
2nd: 2.277
3rd: 1.521
4th: 1.030
5th: 0.837 (AZ-1) or 0.783 (Alto Works K6A)
R: 3.583

Final drive: 4.705

So that means that the K6A will keep the incredibly short ratios and acceleration of the original F6A unit while offering slightly reduced RPM for more comfortable highway cruising (4100 RPM vs 4400 RPM at 70 mph). Fuel economy might be a little better, but for all intents and purposes I am going to label this as insignificant. My original quest for better ratios was based on bad data stating that the AZ-1 would be cruising at over 5500 RPM at 70 mph in 5th, but I created a spreadsheet to compare gear ratios and different tire sizes and found that that number was way off. If anyone is interested, the spreadsheet can be found here .

I haven't looked around for suspension components at all yet, but with the tire size that I'd like to run (because it's the smallest available sport tire here in the US) I have to be absolutely certain that I will not lower the car at all. There is a possibility of the tires fitting in the rear on a sport suspension but no hope at all on the front. Hopefully the tires that come on my AZ-1 have plenty of tread and aren't old because it looks like I might need to do some work to make this work. I guess I didn't mention it in my first post, but 185/60R14 is the smallest Extreme Performance Summer tire that I can source here in the states. It also happens to be the stock size for an NA Miata, and I have a spare set of 14x6.5 Miata wheels that I was intending to mount to the AZ-1. The wheels that are coming on my AZ-1 are RAYS TE37s that, going by availability on the RaysWheels website, are 14x5 wheels. If that's true, I could mount the tires on those wheels and hope that the narrower rim width will help the fit, but at this point I won't be doing anything with wheels or tires until I have the car to measure.

I've been talking with two engine importers to try to acquire an HA22S engine and transmission. Both have said that they will call me back when they get through to their suppliers in Japan and both are coming up on two weeks without any contact. I think it's time to follow-up on those. There's still one company in Texas that has a K6A and FWD transmission from an EA22R. The price is decent but the transmission would be useless to me. I'd still want to source a K6A transmission or other small FWD transmission and adapter plate, and I'd have to start completely from scratch with the engine mounts. I'll call them up again now that I have a better idea about what I want.

@ThunderAlto Thanks for the offer! I don't know how much international shipping would be on something as heavy as a turbocharger, but I'd expect it to be unpleasant. My current sponsor is providing the turbo at half cost and it will carry the standard Garrett OEM warranty, which will be nice. As much as I like having spares of everything just in case, I can't really come up with a good reason to invest in a spare turbocharger at this point. I'll definitely keep that in mind, though.

Last Edit: 03 Apr 2017 20:31 by randman2011.

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03 Apr 2017 20:14 #26594

I ran 195/40R15's on my AZ-1, I think the rims were 15x6.5 ET38 - plenty of room on the back but I needed 5mm spacers on the front to clear the inner wheel arch on full lock.

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03 Apr 2017 20:26 #26595

fxdlidon wrote:

I ran 195/40R15's on my AZ-1, I think the rims were 15x6.5 ET38 - plenty of room on the back but I needed 5mm spacers on the front to clear the inner wheel arch on full lock.

What perfect timing! I'm currently shopping for tires! That's great news! Those tires are quite a bit shorter than the ones that I have, but it's good to know that wider tires are possible. Did you have to do anything special with regard to the fenders to make that fit? Were you running the stock suspension or lowered or anything?

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03 Apr 2017 20:55 #26596

Fenders weren't a problem.
Suspension - alto works front coilovers - the AZ-1 uses the front suspension from the "works" on the front and rear, it's just locked in a straight line at the back.

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05 Apr 2017 14:24 #26599

fxdlidon wrote:

Suspension - alto works front coilovers - the AZ-1 uses the front suspension from the "works" on the front and rear, it's just locked in a straight line at the back.

So what you're saying is that I should remove the tie rod links in the rear and have all-wheel steering? That sounds like a fun and really terrible idea! But seriously, that's good to know because I only see AZ-1 specific suspensions from Silk Road and Aragosta but there are Alto Works suspensions from several other vendors like Monster-Sport. I'm new to suspension tuning, but I was reminded yesterday that Gran Turismo has a very accurate suspension model and I can play around with spring rates and damping settings in there to figure out what I want. Given the snap oversteer characteristics of the car, it seems like it would be ideal to have either identical springrates all around or to have slightly softer springs in the rear. I guess I could also check to see what people are putting on AW11s and scale that down a little. Either way, I've got more research to do.

fxdlidon (or anyone else that has an AZ-1), I have a request. When you get the chance, could you either take a picture of the factory radio connector or tell me what other cars used the same connector? I'm trying to get a new aftermarket radio for mine so that I can have audio for the three day drive back from picking the car up. I looked through some auction sites for radios that came out of AZ-1s to see if they had a picture of the adapter harness, but all of the ones that I found had the harness cut in half and the connector in question was not included.

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07 Apr 2017 07:26 #26601

Some people use radio adapters for Japanese imports, adds 20Mhz to the frequency. Could be a cheap alternative instead of replacing the entire radio.
www.amazon.com/Converter-Frequency-Conve...108mhz/dp/B00IJWQU1Y

I'd like to know the harness info myself as I plan to replace the radio eventually with something more modern.

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11 Apr 2017 14:28 #26602

Before:



And after:

The needle isn't attached yet because I have some other work to do still, like adjust the odometer to match the mileage of my AZ-1 and fabricate the trip reset rod holder, so that's why it's at a weird angle. And I need to source some new gauge face screws for the speedo since the old ones are now too long, but this project is looking pretty good!

Here's the rear:

The top left wire is signal in (hence the green) and the bottom left wire is +12v (hence the red). The bottom right screw is GND and conveniently pops out next to the cluster's ground trace. The top right screw is not connected. So I still need to find a source of +12v and, barring that, add a connector to carry the +12v and signal lines from the chassis.

Separately, I spent some time playing around with the chassis harness that I bought.

I identified the side indicator connectors and was looking around there for something that looked like a speaker connector. I found a few different ones, but for every single connector, only one of the two pins was connected to a connector in the middle of the dash. Since that didn't work, I went to the fuse box and found the fuse labeled "Radio" (15A, third from the right in the top row). I followed that wire to this connector:

And at this point I'm beginning to feel like I'm loosing my mind. At least it's confirmation that the group of connectors that I had assumed are in the middle of the dash are, indeed, near the radio. Here they are for documentation purposes:

It seems like most or all of those are involved in the radio somehow. So that's fun.

On top of all of that, I followed up with my three K6A import leads yesterday. One took my name and number as though they had no record of me calling a week ago. The second said that they hadn't heard anything yet from the supplier. The third recognized me by name, said that he hadn't heard back from the supplier, and that he would follow up with them and call me today. I got a little caught up with the gauge cluster project and forgot to call the second half of my importer list before everything closed. So maybe I'll have another update today.

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12 Apr 2017 18:55 #26604

You might find this useful

Attachments:

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13 Apr 2017 20:29 #26605

Half-update: I got an email from one of the engine importers yesterday. He forwarded the email from his supplier, which was just, "Yes we can find it the price 1200" So assuming that's USD the price isn't bad at all, but I'm not confident that the supplier was referring to an HA22S K6A from an RS/Z with a manual transmission and not, for example, the K6A from the base model HA22S which didn't have a turbo.

In my research into directing him toward the exact engine that I want, I found that the K6A with VVT head was installed in base model (READ: non turbo) Suzuki Wagon Rs. I can't see any differences between the HA22S turbo engine and the Wagon R non-turbo engine, so maybe they will be acceptable? I'm planning to replace the rotating assembly regardless, so the weak high-compression internals won't be a concern of mine. As long as the blocks are the same (I can say that the engine mount locations are the same) and the heads flow just as well, it shouldn't matter. And on top of that, the turbo Wagon R RRs came with the same FWD 5 speed transmission that I'm looking for, so it shouldn't be difficult to get a transmission after all.

I finally found a price on the overbore piston and stroker crankshaft kit that I've been eyeing. 661,000JPY or $6,100. 830cc would be nice, but no thanks. Fortunately Monster Sport has a 718cc piston and cylinder liner set for $1300, which is much more reasonable. And in the end I might not want the stroker crankshaft because of mean piston speed/redline issues. Now I just need to find a Monster Sport reseller, since they are legendary for being incredibly unfriendly toward international customers.
fxdlidon wrote:

You might find this useful

I got very excited yesterday when you posted this because the 12-pin connector looked very familiar. I finally got a chance to check out my harness again late last night and realized that, in addition to being female like the socket on the radio instead of male as would be required, the similar-looking connector on the chassis harness has 15 pins instead of 12. If that is similar to the factory radio for the AZ-1, then I must be missing a sub-harness that goes from what I have to one or more of those connectors. Do you know what car that guide is for? The frequency ranges shown on the diagram aren't the ones used in Japan. If this radio was shared between the AZ-1 and a USDM car, then getting a radio install harness will be really easy. Semi-related note, do you know of a good source of documentation like this for the AZ-1? I'm going to need a diagram for the ECU when I get to the standalone ECU install.

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